Khrisokellariá accommodation from NZ$124

Good location, good service but the furniture needs updated

yes

I spent nearly 40 years writing about travel, so I know a thing or two about hotels. Filanthi is a special place in every way. Yes, the sea is right outside and there’s a great restaurant below, but it’s far more than that. This building has been in the same family for many generations (see story in photo) and is now run by a young woman named Eugenia, who has done a flawless job of preserving the charm of her great-grandfather’s home while blending it with artistic, modern touches, for example, the way the beautiful bathroom tiles conjure hillsides of olive, citrus, and sage. She has also introduced comfort elements not typical of Greek hotels. The bed was exceptionally comfortable—nothing like the traditional board-like fare—and the shower was the best I experienced in four weeks of traveling through the Peloponnese. Every detail is unique and thoughtfully chosen; she should be proud of the years of work that went into creating such a space. There was a complimentary bottle of local wine in the room that I didn’t try, and though I never ordered one, my sea-view double came with a balcony cat who was charming and excellent company. My only suggestion: I hope she soon drops “The Project” from the name. In my experience, the hotel is already complete—elegant, well-finished, and deeply memorable.